Tacothon – The Quest for Fayetteville’s Best Taco

tacothon1

Tacos. What comes to mind when you hear that delicious word? Crispy shell? Soft shell? Corn tortilla? Flour tortilla? Chicken? Beef? Shrimp? It’s one of those things on which everyone has an opinion, and everyone has a favorite.

I wanted to conduct an experiment. My idea went something like this: gather a panel of judges, visit ten of Fayetteville’s Mexican restaurants, eat one taco each, judge the taco, and move on to the next restaurant. A few simple rules were laid out: 1) no national chains, 2) it must be an established Fayetteville restaurant, 3) no build-your-own (a la Flying Burrito), and 4) the selection is limited to crunchy beef tacos and crunchy chicken tacos to keep the judging as fair as possible. Each judge was given a scorecard for each restaurant with the categories “crunchiness”, “meat quality”, “topping quality” and “overall flavor”, to judge on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being gross and 5 being delish). The judges were also provided an “additional comments” section, where they could comment freely on anything they wanted – from the salsa to the atmosphere to the staff, or to go into more detail about their taco.

Simple enough, right? So I compiled a list of restaurants based on searching for “Mexican restaurant” on local540.com and taking the first ten restaurants that fit the requirements. I rounded up our own Fayetteville Flyer’s founding fathers – and their wives – to help bring my idea to fruition. We divided into two teams, Team Beef and Team Chicken, and visited 10 Mexican restaurants on Saturday’s snowy afternoon in search of Fayetteville’s best taco. Ten tacos and six hours later, we all considered ourselves well-versed in the realm of Fayetteville’s taco options. These are the results, from worst to best. Enjoy!

#10: Jose’s324 W. Dickson St.
One judge summed it up well: “(N)olé for Jose’s”. Back in the day, Jose’s was the spot for some good, local Tex-Mex. However, the years have not been kind to this Fayetteville staple; the food preparation looks rushed and careless, the quality of the food seems to have diminished. Some judges’ comments included, “egads, canned chicken!”, “tastes like cake” (I’m assuming this is a bad thing?), and “smells like kitty food.” In Jose’s defense, we will add that the margaritas are arguably the best in town, and the staff was prompt and friendly. Or as another judge searching for kind words put it, “Good alcohol. Has a bathroom.”

#9: Marlo’s Taco Shack1192 N. Garland Ave.
Oh, Marlo. Your little shack is so cute. But your tacos? Not so much. While the beef tacos scored notably higher than the chicken tacos, this taco shack across from the Harps on Garland Avenue failed to meet our taco standards. After ordering at the window (there is no table service), our panel sat in small booths with amusing prose carved into the tabletops. No plates were provided, so we ate our tacos off napkins. One judge remarked, “this tastes like TV dinner chicken.” Other comments included, “smallest, lightest and driest taco”, “lame – I could make better at home” and, “I wish Shaq were here at the Shack.” To Marlo’s credit, some judges were pleasantly surprised: “Not great, but not as bad as I was expecting.” Meh. Next!

#8: Acambaro2605 N. College Ave.
Remember when Acambaro was Ruffino’s? Remember that rumor around town that Ruffino’s was run by the mob? Yeah, me too… Anyway, we don’t think Acambaro is run by the mob. But we do think their tacos could use a little help. The first thing all the judges noticed was that the taco shells were stale. This category was what brought Acambaro’s score way, way down. Other remarks included, “nothing special”, “runny taco”, and “too much oregano in the chicken”. One judge even found something besides meat in his fare: “Weird plastic thing in my taco. Lame.” The atmosphere was another downer for the group. With fluorescent lights and no music, the restaurant gave off an “eat and get out” vibe. However, we will say that Acambaro seems to have escaped Fayetteville’s restaurant plague, which closes even the most unsuspecting of restaurants, so it must have a devout crowd out there somewhere.

#7: Oseguera’s1466 N. College Ave.
This was a shocker for all of us. As the favorite Mexican restaurant of most everyone on the judges’ panel, Oseguera’s low score came as quite a surprise. As with Acambaro, the number one score killer was a stale taco shell, followed by lukewarm meat. While several of the judges remarked on the “de-freaking-lish” flavor of the shredded beef and the “yummy meltiness” of the cheese, others remarked on the overpowering smell of industrial cleaner, which made the dining experience less pleasant. Overall, Oseguera’s is still one of our favorite places to eat good Mexican food, but not a place to get crunchy tacos. Don’t be mad, Oseguera’s. We still love you.

#6: La Hacienda2901 E. Zion Rd.
This was our first stop on the Tacothon. With a ravenous appetite and a sunny outlook on the day ahead, these tacos tasted pretty good, but not quite good enough. One judge commented that she “could have made this at home”, while another found her meat to be “lukewarm and drippy”. Other judges added that their tacos were “average”, but that “this place would definitely win if this were an enchilada contest.” Some liked the ample amount of cheese on the tacos, while others thought the “fresh iceberg overwhelmed the taco”. The friendliness and attentiveness of the staff was a definite perk – our polite server and the chatty manager went out of their way to make us feel welcome. But overall, it was an average taco in a restaurant that serves better-than-average Mexican food.

#5: La Huerta2356 N. College Ave.
“La Hurt’cha!”, “La Kill’ya!” We’ve all heard the nicknames that diners have bestowed upon this longtime Fayetteville icon. To be perfectly honest, we didn’t have our hopes set too high for this one – which made it hard to believe when we bit into one freakin’ tasty taco! It should be said that the chicken tacos scored significantly higher than the beef tacos. With bits of bell pepper, onion and tomato in the chicken, the flavor was “yummy!” and “surprisingly delicious!” We inquired as to the secret behind La Huerta’s delicious chicken – it’s boiled! Another winner at the La Huerta stop was the “awesome fried shell”, a corn tortilla that was fried to a golden brown, probably mere minutes before the tacos landed on our table. There were a few drawbacks, though. Some judges were unimpressed by the sparse toppings: “why no tomato?”, while others thought the place smelled of “B.O. and industrial cleaner.” If they had offered us a vat of their infamous cheese dip to bathe in, they may just have reached the #1 spot.

#4: Elenita’s1120 N. Lindell Ave.
After changing locations a handful of times, Elenita’s has finally established its roots just off of North Street, next to Mr. Burger. We rolled into an empty restaurant on Saturday afternoon, ready for a stiff drink after our experience at Marlo’s Taco Shack – only to be told that the owner has let the liquor license lapse – therefore, no booze! This was a big blow to Elenita’s overall score, but the delicious tacos were enough to bring it back up. The beef tacos scored higher than the chicken tacos at this stop, but no one had any major gripes other than, “wet plates!” and “generic taco shells”. Several members of Team Beef commented on the good flavor of the ground beef, and Team Chicken was also impressed with the “moist, flavorful meat”, which was a mixture of white and dark. The toppings were well proportioned, and the cheese plentiful. Well done, Elenita’s, well done.

#3: Mariachi’s25 E. Center St.
“…Where?”, you may be asking yourself. Mariachi’s has been flying under the radar since its opening in the summer of 2007. Located in the old Café Santa Fe building on Center Street, Mariachi’s – although often empty and rarely mentioned – has been able to keep afloat in a town full of Mexican joints. And after a few bites of their tacos, we found out why. Several members of Team Beef commented on the good flavor but small quantity of meat on their taco, while members of Team Chicken all commented on the quality and flavor of their meat: “one of the best of the day!”, “Very similar to La Huerta! Yummm!” Another plus was the lettuce was not iceberg, but rather finely chopped green leaf lettuce – a nice change of pace for some of us, while others still preferred iceberg. Besides the food, Mariachi’s was able to woo us by providing us the remote to their flat screen TV, and as one judge mused, “Good bathroom mirror – makes me look really tan.”

#2: Colombia Mex2155 W. 6th St. (MLK Jr. Blvd)
Columbia Mex was the sleeper hit of the day. A small deli/grocery store/taqueria located in a shopping center on 6th Street, Colombia Mex wowed us all with their “dang-that’s-good” tacos. However, unbeknownst to us, Columbia Mex didn’t have the kind of tacos we were judging, which threw off the point tallying. But after one bite of their “best and freshest by far” tacos, we quickly ignored our point system and dove into some of the best tacos of the day. The toppings were simple – cilantro and chopped onion – and although one judge isn’t a fan of onions, he still gave the taco high marks for meat quality and overall flavor. The flavor was “amazingly fresh, very simple, but the best yet”, and could be heightened even more by the addition of delicious red or green salsas. The friendly and informative owner, who cooked our tacos right before our eyes, even gave us a sample of beef tongue (yes, tongue!) to share among the judges. Our experience at Colombia Mex was an energizing one, even after 8 tacos. And as one judge put it simply, the tacos were “holy crap delicious”.

(Drum roll, please!)

#1: El Camino Real815 S. School Ave.
El Camino Real was not only the last stop of the day, it was the best stop of the day – and to still taste delicious after 9 other tacos is a difficult feat. We were greeted warmly by our server (and part-owner?), who “wears an adorable apron!”, and were provided the cheapest beers of the day. As one judge was surprised to find, “Miller Lite even comes with a lime!” While waiting for our food, our sweet server even showed us other dishes we could have ordered instead, like the bruscetta and the chimichanga. Our tacos arrived and the first thing we noticed – as we seem to have done all day – was the shell. The SHELL! It was a fried flour corn tortilla, with a delicious, flaky crunch and subtle flavor. The delicious shell scored a 5 for crunchiness across the board. “THE BEST fried flour tortilla, ever”, one judge raved. Both the chicken and the beef got some of the highest scores of the day for quality, and one judge enjoyed the “mixture of cheeses” as a topping. Several judges noted the “best salsa” of the day, as well, and the availability of the “hot and smoky” hot salsa. The food was great, the tacos were unbeatable, and the staff was some of the warmest and friendliest of the day. Congratulations, El Camino. Your tacos are number one!

* If for some reason, the slideshow doesn’t load, visit the entire set at our Flickr page

52 Comments  

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  1. Erin says:

    Thanks for this – I’m a taco fan, but prefer the soft tacos. I haven’t tried the ones at Columbia Mex yet – but everything else I’ve had there is delicious. These sound like the tacos I used to eat the heck out of when I lived in Austin, meat – white onions – cilantro – and deliciousness.

    I’d recommend trying the tacos at the Fast Casual place on 6th. The place looks a bit scary, but I think their tacos are quite delicious. I’d kind of like to see how they rate with the rest of the places.

  2. Bev says:

    I still believe I missed my calling in life by not being able to participate in this important event. Well done you guys!

  3. brains says:

    Oh tacos. I made Dustin promise not to even say the word taco on Sunday. Ten tacos in one day made me feel nauseas, but it was well worth it. Congratulations El Camino Real. You did it.

  4. Lankford says:

    Nice job, Laura and crew. I followed #tacosearch on Twitter while working Saturday. I have to say, judging on appearance alone, those Colombia Mex tacos look the tastiest. Put some sour cream on those, and I’m in.

  5. Yolanda, fool! says:

    Yay for Mariachi’s getting some taco-love. Best Mexican food place in Fville.

  6. jesse says:

    I love Oseguera’s and hate to complain, yet every time I go to Osequera’s, I complain about the windex they use to clean tables. Double yuck.

  7. Alannah says:

    I agree completely with these results. Chuy and Anani deserve the recognition for their delicious, cheap food and friendly service!

  8. Nancy says:

    Has anyone been to Sara’s in Springdale? Kind of out of the way, awesome tiny tacos…yummy!

  9. zh says:

    I cant wait to try out that Colombia Mex place. Thats how a taco should be done!

  10. Dustin says:

    Columbia Mex was so delicious. Almost as good as that taco truck in LR.

  11. chancevb says:

    agree 100% with your rankings. where do i sign up to work with ya’ll?

  12. yrfuneralmytrial says:

    Would’ve loved to been on this panel! I’ve always been a big El Camino Real fan but as of late, ColumbiaMex has won me over. They recently changed owners but from what I can tell, the two ladies cooking the chow remain the same. A good thing. One taco, one tamale w/ bean & rice + a cane sugar Coke. That’s a rockin’ lunch. However, when it comes to Carne Asada tacos, Osegueras rules. I agree w/ the bleach cleaned tables complaint. Both O’s and ColumbiaMex throw that stuff on too thick. On my last CM visit, every empty table still had cleaner bubbles everywhere. Wipe that stuff off guys.

  13. moondawg says:

    Which little shopping center is Columbia Mex in? A little help, please. Like, right next to ________?

  14. Dustin says:

    @moondog – In the shopping center with Electric Cowboy and Mexico Viejo. http://www.local540.com/marketplace/businesses/colombia-mex/

  15. DragonLady says:

    Best tacos in NWA: El Sabor Latino in Springdale. Get the carne asada tacos. Their little corn tortilla tacos with only meat. Squeeze some lime, load up with the onion and cilantro and you’re there. Then order a papusa.

  16. Total Bastard says:

    What a fantastic article.

    Yummmmmmmmmmm…

    Elenita’s has had that North Street location since at least 99, if not 97 or 98.

    It was Piggie Pies prior.

    I used to eat the HELL outta some Elenita’s Lunch Fajitas, $4.95.

  17. a. brown says:

    Word up to El Camino! I don’t eat tasty animals anymore, but that was an excellent tour of tacos. I had no idea Camino had bruschetta. Going tonight.

  18. moondawg says:

    Great. Next time, please repeat this with tamales, please. Are there ANY non-gooey tamales around here?

  19. Me says:

    Wow, Elenita’s let their alcohol license lapse months ago… I would have assumed they would have fixed that by now. I used to go there 2-3 times a week (I lived nearby and their chicken tortilla soup is incredible) but they are very dysfunctional as a business. I usually get poor service, they leave out ingredients without telling you if they are out, once I waited 10 min. for a to go soup only to find out they ran out of containers, and once I even had to come back to pay another day because a worker was tying up the phone lines and they couldn’t run my card. The worker wascussing loudly and was inviting someone to come up there for a fight so the lady at the counter didn’t want to upset him further. Great food, but too much drama!

  20. mtaylorlong says:

    Great post Laura! I hope everyone heads out to try the best tacos for themselves. I hope there’s more of these posts to come.

  21. bryce says:

    I look forward to trying spots #1 and #2 ASAP. I love a good chewy fried flour tortilla…

  22. David Franks says:

    “Great food, but too much drama!” –Me

    Sounds like Antonio’s, except that Antonio’s was well worth a little family drama.

  23. stacy says:

    good investigation Flyer…. you guys informed my about some options i’ve never tried before. Austin can turn you into a taco snob but it sounds like fayetteville is holding its own

  24. moondawg says:

    Ahhh…Antonio’s! Wonderful food, and sometimes the arguments between the “staff” were flying as fast as the pizza dough. Always entertaining.

  25. ColumbiaMex was butts to nuts gringos tonight, half of them trying to order stuff like nachos and baja chalupas. Hope you’re happy, Flyer.

  26. a. brown says:

    I’m curious– did you mean pico de gallo instead of bruschetta? If so, that does indeed rock there. Tostada sencilla + pico = $3 meal. I told Anani about the contest and she had me test a bean taco– delish!

  27. Alannah says:

    Also totally off the taco topic – but El Camino’s ceviche tostadas are out of this world. Each one is $2….two tostadas and you’re full and happy and only out $4 plus tax and tip.

  28. Laura Hobbs says:

    I’m glad everyone enjoyed the article! I can assure you we enjoyed the research just as much, if not more. I’m already brainstorming new ideas for another “best of” article. Suggestions are welcome!

    @a. brown: One of the dishes we were shown by the server at El Camino was a plate of grilled shrimp, onions and bell peppers, served with a side of warm flour tortillas (it resembled fajitas, in a way). She told us it was “bruschetta” – my spelling could be waaay off – but I’m pretty sure that’s what she said. It looked delish!

  29. Sardon says:

    If you do a soft taco contest, don’t forget Taco Place in the strip mall east of Razorback on MLK. You have to order it off the “Mexican Menu” or Richard will give you a crispy taco with seasoned ground beef. The “Mexican” taco is a soft, warm, fragrant, sexy corn tortilla filled with tasty grilled, diced, lusty carne asada, topped with virgin-fresh cilantro and chopped onion. Get the green sauce when Richard asks if you want red or green. To make it even better, ask for doblas, or double tortillas.

  30. Best idea for a post ever.

  31. Gina says:

    Laura, I’m guessing it was brochetas…I’ve had them at Oseguera’s.

  32. chris c says:

    Hate to say it, but Springdale has Fayetteville beat for tacos. You’d have to spend at least a week on your taco tour there, though.

    And Maria’s in Rogers (NOT the one in Springdale) is my hands-down favorite place for a crunchy chicken taco.

    @moondawg: Try the tamales at Little Johnny’s in Springdale, on Pleasant in between WalMart in the library.

  33. chris-os says:

    Maybe chris should write that stuff on the springdale springdales dot suck hole website. You’re probably correct.

  34. chris c says:

    I’m just saying we should officially annex their Mexican and Salvadorean restaurants (and bakeries and convenience stores). It’s a putrid city to drive through (and I couldn’t imagine living there), but their sabor latino is off the charts.

    I would also take the duck pond park surrounding their library (but not their library).

  35. chris-os says:

    I lived there for six wonderful months. A month after i moved out of the duplex a red chevy blazer drove all the way in to the kitchen. the picture was in the springdale morning news. I ate my tacos at the taco tico.

  36. I really wish Fayettevillians didn’t try to distinguish themselves from “lower class” Springdale so often. Yeah, we get it, Fayetteville has a higher per capita income. The elitism is totally unbecoming and counter to our assumed culturally enlightened image. Let’s let it go.

  37. chris c says:

    Mr. Stapp,

    It’s not the “lower class” of Springdale that I take exception to.

    It’s their business and city leaders (“upper class”) who put a ton of money into the First Baptist Church, which by all accounts seems to spend more money on renovations and expansion than no-strings-attached community outreach; who have allowed strip malls, factories, warehouses, fast food restaurants and billboards to dominate the majority of the city’s livable space; and who perpetrate a thinly veiled racist social standard in which they seem to resent the Latinos living in their city while silently accepting that without the cheap labor force their businesses would not run.

    And if you spend any time in the city’s few public parks, you would see that the “lower class,” especially said Latinos, enjoys soccer fields and “green space” as much as any ONF-membership-owning socks-and-sandals-wearing college-town liberal in Fayetteville.

  38. a. brown says:

    As someone who does denigrate Springdale when it comes up (though their library is ace– I worked there) I do agree with Scott that a lot of what people say about the Dale could rise from some class snobbery. So, I guess I’ll plead guilty. But it could also be a defense from people living in a state that ranks kind of low on cultural diversity and progressiveness. If you live in the 8th circle of hell, it’s good to have the 7th to poke fun at.

  39. chris c says:

    I agree that the library is very good, with fantastic people who work there and great programs for the community. I was only saying that I wouldn’t trade it for ours, although it would be a pretty great branch library.

    I won’t dispute that a lot of the criticism of Springdale is a shallow form of (class) snobbery, but I was just clarifying that mine was not, and pointing out there’s room for legitimate criticism, as well.

    But back to my original point, man they are taco-rich.

  40. El Ultimo Taco on Emma, just east of the tracks, in the tiny blue and red brick building with a walk-up window only, is my favorite taco store in NWA. But my favorite thing on their menu is their fully-loaded carne asada burrito served with a side of grilled onions, chopped radishes, lime wedges, and a super smoky red sauce. Plus, if you buy 5 tacos you get a free can of Pepsi. I hear good things about Little Johnny’s too.

  41. chris c says:

    El Ultimo Taco…I didn’t even know the name of that place, but I have been there several times, and you’re right: It’s very good.

    Has anyone noticed a growing scarcity of Mexican-style cane sugar Coke in Springdale, though? A few weeks ago, I tried two different convenience stores that always have had it, with no luck. I was wondering if one of the importer/distributors got shut down or something.

  42. David Franks says:

    The corn lobby got them. Tortillas weren’t enough to satisfy them. Greedy bastards.

  43. chris c says:

    Do you have any more info? I would read a 4-page NYTimes article about it.

  44. David Franks says:

    I saw it in the Wall Street Journal. (They left out the greedy bastards part.)

  45. Jess says:

    I just went to Columbia Mex the other day. Sad to say but my tacos were not nearly as good as the last time I tried one. The meat was terrible. I usually love that place. The tacos looking nothing like the picture. Sad. I still like the Carnitas.

  46. Boyd Logan says:

    Going to have to try El Ultimo Taco. All of my hispanic students swear by Little Johnny’s, but I haven’t checked it out yet, either.

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